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Diário de bordo – Dia 11


Amyr no banco de trás, Líbera de carro e Joel com puna

Trajeto                 Deserto do Atacama

Terreno                asfalto, terra e pedra

Temperatura        9°C a 17°C

Altitude               2.408 a 4.122 metros

No primeiro dia no Atacama, o Honda WR-V subiu além dos 4.100 metros por uma estrada para 4×4 nenhum botar defeito

Alguma coisa está fora da ordem. Mas tudo bem. Em nosso primeiro dia no Atacama, o 11º da jornada do Atlântico ao Pacífico, Amyr Klink largou pela primeira vez o volante do WR-V e sentou-se no banco de trás. Líbera deixou a X-ADV descansando e assumiu o comando de um WR-V. Joel, nosso líder, sempre de olhos bem abertos, sucumbiu à puna, como os sintomas causados pela altitude são chamados por aqui – nada grave, nada que uma noite de sono não cure, nada que o impedirá de voltar a tocar o barco amanhã.

Não foi apenas Joel que sentiu o mal das alturas, diga-se. Hoje subimos um bocado. Saímos dos 2.408 metros de altitude do aconchego impecável do hotel Tierra Atacama, rodamos 110 quilômetros e ascendemos além dos 4.000 metros para ficar diante de duas das lagunas altiplânicas mais espetaculares desse pedaço do mundo, a Miscanti e a Miñiques, sobre as quais falaremos em breve. Difícil encontrar alguém que passe ileso com a falta de oxigênio no ar. Da nossa equipe, a maioria sentiu dificuldade para respirar, dor de cabeça, cansaço… O ar some com qualquer movimento menos suave (e isso pode incluir amarrar a bota), com qualquer pique (evite!), com qualquer lance de escada, com qualquer diálogo mais animado…

A dica é se aclimatar aos poucos e ir subindo gradativamente. Foi o que fizemos. O carro possibilita essa aclimatação paulatina. A subida de hoje, no entanto, foi relativamente abrupta e em altitude elevada: 1.600 metros em menos de duas horas. Carros, cujo desempenho depende da mistura ar-combustível, também sentem um pouco o ar rarefeito. No caso do WR-V a diferença no desempenho do carro foi mínima. O SUV da Honda foi numa boa até a beira das duas lagunas citadas acima. Foi preciso pisar um pouco mais no acelerador e exigir um pouco mais do motor. O WR-V, diga-se, tem se comportado de maneira perfeita. Anda como um carro de passeio nas cidades e estradas, e transforma-se em um 4×4 quando o terreno sob seus pneus exige.

Isso aconteceu hoje, quando saímos de San Pedro e fomos às alturas visitar as lagunas a Miscanti e a Miñiques. O caminho mescla asfalto de primeira e trechos de terra. Após uma saída à esquerda, o Atacama mostra suas cartas. Debaixo do WR-V, uma estrada sinuosa de terra, areia e pedras, daquelas deliciosas. Pelo amplo para-brisa dianteiro, um visual exuberante de montanhas marrons, meio avermelhadas, forradas com os típicos arbustos dourados e encimadas por uma coroa branca de neve. Vicunhas pastam livremente. Entre um zigue e um zague, surge a Miscanti, de um azul-marinho claro lindo. Contemplação, fotos (drone é proibido)… Meio quilômetro adiante, é a vez da Miñiques, ainda mais azul-marinho claro. Em ambas, banham-se pássaros raros, que usam apenas essas porções de águas altas para se reproduzir e construir seus ninhos. Por isso é proibido entrar nas lagunas.

Entre interjeições de espanto, abraços, fotos, suspiros de falta de ar e reclamações de dor de cabeça, descemos de volta para o asfalto para almoçar no restaurante de uma comunidade indígena. A sopa de carne com grandes flocos de choclo (milho) estava excelente. Do frango, não se pode dizer o mesmo.

Para ver o pôr-do-sol, seguimos para os Ojos del Salar, dois buracos redondamente redondos no meio da planície do Atacama. Parece que não há uma versão oficial para aqueles dois olhos com mais de 20 metros de diâmetro terem aparecido. Há quem diga que o terreno cedeu devido ao lençol freático subterrâneo, mas pode ter sido obra de uma má sucedida busca por petróleo. Apesar de não ser um destino que mereça privilégio em sua visita ao Atacama, rendeu ótimas imagens devido ao reflexo causado pela água e devido à cadeia de montanhas reinada pelo vulcão Licancabur ao fundo.

O retorno ao Tierra Atacama deu-se já no escuro, mas a tempo de ver os últimos raios de sol se esconderem e fazerem desaparecer a tal cadeia de montanhas dominada pelo onipresente Licancabur, visto das janelas dos quartos do hotel. Um espetáculo. Assim como o jantar, com pratos tão bonitos quanto deliciosos, e a conversa com os guias do hotel para traçar o dia seguinte. Temos só mais um dia no Atacama. Uma pena.

Veja como foi o primeiro dia da viagem

Veja como foi o segundo dia da viagem 

Veja como foi o terceiro dia da viagem

Veja como foi o quarto dia da viagem

Veja como foi o quinto dia da viagem

Veja como foi o sexto dia da viagem

Veja como foi o sétimo dia da viagem

Veja como foi o oitavo dia da viagem

Veja como foi o nono dia da viagem

Veja como foi o décimo dia da viagem

Fotos: Érico Hiller

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