Em um memorável dia de equinócio, expedição come o legítimo alfajor e percorre estradas duras para ficar diante de um impressionante naufrágio
Se a viagem de sete mil quilômetros desde São Paulo fosse apenas para fazer o que fizemos hoje e voltar, já teria valido a pena. Foi daqueles dias perfeitos. Começou com a sempre presente Ruta 3, que, entre idas e vindas, nos acompanha desde Buenos Aires. Nas redondezas de Ushuaia, ladeada por imensos picos nevados e enfeitada por lagos, como o Escondido e o Fagnano, ela fica estonteante.
A brincadeira ficou mais divertida quando Amyr Klink pegou uma direita e entrou em uma estrada de terra em direção a Tolhuin. No portal da cidade, a estátua de dois índios Selk’nam lembram os viajantes do genocídio pelo qual esse povo passou desde a chegada dos espanhóis. Não sobrou sequer um descendente para contar história. A última Selk’nam morreu em 1974.
Duzentos metros adiante, paramos na La Union, padaria que solta de hora em hora empanadas deliciosas. Prove a de queijo com cebola. Custam 20 pesos – 3,3 reais.
Os alfajores da La Union também merecem uma mordida. Dizem ser os autênticos, diferentemente dos industrializados de sabor meio insosso. Não deixe de provar também o pão de queijo. Provavelmente será o melhor que você terá comido… fora do Brasil.
Seguimos pela estrada de terra sentido oceano Atlântico, de olho nas placas Cabo San Pablo. A paisagem muda bastante em relação à encontrada nos dias anteriores. Em vez de rípio, terra. As onipresentes lengas, outrora meio peladas, aqui são mais frondosas.
A temperatura sobe: dos 6 graus de Ushuaia, para 13. A brisa é e leve. Sol, céu azul. O caminho fica cada vez mais complicado, esburacado, fechado, com travessia de rios. Mas os dois HR-V e os dois WR-V seguem em frente sem chorar. Ao longe avista-se a primeira grande atração do dia: o farol do cabo San Pablo.
Paramos todos para vê-lo e fotografá-lo, e para avaliar as condições do terreno do caminho tortuoso que sobe a falésia diante de uma praia linda onde impõe-se, bem torto, o charmoso farol de uns 20 metros de altura.
É trabalho para carros com tração 4×4 – muitos degraus e uma inclinação de dar frio na barriga. “Já vi muito 4×4 não conseguir subir essa estrada”, alerta Amyr. Um a um, os quatro Honda vencem a ribanceira e chegam diante da construção capenga de concreto. Foi construído em 1945, mas quatro anos depois um terremoto o deixou assim, torto. Parece que vai cair dali a dois minutos. Apesar dos ventos fortes que o chicoteiam sem parar, assoreando a areia sob seus pés, ele resiste. E faz abrir um sorriso no rosto de Amyr Klink, que vira uma criança subindo e descendo no farol.
Lá de cima, avista-se a outra grande atração do dia. Chama-se Desdemona. Tem 77,7 metros de comprimento, 12,5 de altura e 7,8 de largura. Encalhou em 9 de setembro de 1985, depois de seu motor deixar o capitão na mão. Há quem diga que foi uma jogada da companhia dona do navio para ganhar uma grana do seguro.
Fato é que o Desdemona jaz na praia de San Pablo. Um hotel abandonado antecede a chegada à areia. Foi construído como parte de um plano turístico do governo – não vingou. Amyr, que já esteve lá outras vezes, não titubeia: coloca o HR-V na areia e entra onde deveria estar o mar, se não estivéssemos no período da maré baixa e, mais ainda, exatamente no dia do equinócio, quando o mar recua como nunca. Com o WR-V, Joel também entra no mar.
O leito é de pedras grandes e escorregadias. Um desafio para os carros, que conseguem chegar na areia dura que ladeia o naufrágio.
O Desdemona, produzido na Alemanha nos anos 1950, está carcomido pela ferrugem. Em seu interior, mais de 30 anos depois, ainda estão centenas de sacos de cimento que seguiam para Rio Grande, ali pertinho. Duas âncoras gigantes, presas ao navio por grossas correntes, seguem cravadas na areia a dezenas de metros da embarcação.
Vale a pena caminhar pela praia para ver aquela imagem surreal de diversos ângulos. Amyr e Joel abrem o bagageiro do HR-V, sacam uma caixa de plástico, improvisam uma mesa e armam um piquenique. Queijo, salame, marisco, pepino em conserva e 30 deliciosas empanadas compradas na La Union. Missão cumprida.
O retorno para Ushuaia é acompanhado pelo pôr-do-sol que doura as montanhas nevadas. Na cidade, paramos para jantar no El Turco, sempre na avenida San Martin.
Bifes ancho com purê de papas e duas garrafas de Malbec saciam a fome de todos. Houve quem ainda teve forças para arriscar a sorte no cassino, mas a maioria da equipe foi para o hotel dormir de frente para o canal de Beagle.
Veja como foi o décimo terceiro dia
Veja como foi o décimo segundo dia
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